Actinidia deliciosa • The Fuzzy Powerhouse
Originally known as the Chinese Gooseberry ("Yang Tao"), the Kiwi fruit was rebranded in New Zealand in the 1960s after their national bird. It is a vigorous, woody vine that can live for over 50 years, producing hundreds of pounds of fruit annually once established.
Growing kiwis is not for the faint of heart or the small of space. These vines are monsters. They need a pergola strong enough to support an elephant (slight exaggeration, but they are heavy!). However, the reward is incredible: fresh, fuzzy fruit that tastes far sweeter and more complex than anything you buy at the supermarket.
There are two main types: the fuzzy kiwi (common in stores, hardy to zone 7-8) and the hardy kiwi (grape-sized, fuzzless skin, hardy to zone 4). This guide focuses on the classic fuzzy kiwi, but the principles of care are similar.
Kiwis are nutrient-dense bombs. They actually contain more Vitamin C per gram than oranges. Below is the breakdown for one medium fruit (approx. 75g).
*Percent Daily Values (DV) are based on a 2,000 calorie diet.
With over 100% of your daily Vitamin C in a single fruit, Kiwis are one of the best foods for immune support and fighting off colds.
Kiwis contain good amounts of serotonin. Studies have shown that eating two kiwis before bed can improve sleep onset and duration.
Rich in lutein and zeaxanthin (antioxidants). These compounds accumulate in the retina and protect against macular degeneration.
Bioactive substances in three kiwis a day can lower blood pressure more than an apple a day, reducing risk of strokes.
Patience is the name of the game. Kiwis can take 3-5 years to start fruiting, but once they start, they are prolific.
Kiwis are dioecious, meaning they have separate male and female plants. You need at least one male for every 6-8 females. The male will never produce fruit; his only job is pollination.
Self-fertile varieties like 'Issai' (Hardy Kiwi) exist, but they generally produce smaller crops. For fuzzy kiwi, plan for a couple.
Do this BEFORE planting. A mature kiwi vine is immense. Use 4x6" or 6x6" posts with heavy-gauge wire strung between T-bars.
A pergola over a patio is perfect—providing shade for you and support for the fruit, which will hang down beautifully for harvest.
Plant in spring after the danger of frost has passed. They need full sun and protection from wind, which can snap the tender young shoots.
Soil must be well-draining and slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5). They hate "wet feet" and will rot in standing water.
Kiwis are thirsty plants. They have shallow roots and large leaves that transpire a lot of water. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
Apply a thick layer of mulch (straw or wood chips) around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Do not let the mulch touch the trunk.
Prune heavily in winter while dormant. Kiwi fruit grows on wood that is one year old. Your goal is to keep a permanent framework and renew the fruiting canes every few years.
Remove twisted or tangled growth. It should look clean and organized, not like a bird's nest.
Late spring frosts kill the new buds. Fix: Cover young vines with frost cloth if a freeze is predicted. Plant on a north-facing slope to delay budding until spring is truly arrived.
Brown, crispy edges on leaves. Cause: Drought stress or salt burn (fertilizer). Fix: Water more frequently and deeply. Avoid chemical fertilizers near the trunk.
Strange but true: Kiwi vines contain compounds similar to catnip. Cats may dig up roots or chew stems of young plants. Fix: Put a wire cage around the base of young plants.